Picea

Picea is thebotanical name for the Spruce tree. These are evergreen trees that are grown for their ornamental and commercial value. They are found in temperate countries of the Northern Hemisphere. They are hardy trees, except when young they are susceptible to injury, especially if they grow at lower altitudes. Spruce trees can be distinguished from Pine and Fir trees by inspecting their shoots. The needles of Pine trees (See, Pinus) are arranged in groups of two, three, or five, and are held together with a sheath. Those of the Spruce are arranged singly on the branches. When the leaves fall from the Spruce, a small peg-like base is left on the stem. This characteristic gives a rough texture to the branch. There is no peg left when a leaf from a Fir tree falls, only a disk-like scar. The cones of the Spruce dangle from the branches, except when very young, and they stay on the branches several months after they are ripe. The cones of the Fir are erect on the branches and they break up as soon as the seeds are ripe, leaving only a central core on the shoot. P. rubens, the Red Spruce, isn't commonly grown, however it is valued as a source of wood pulp for the manufacture of paper. Its wood is light and soft and is perfect for this purpose. It is occasionally used as construction lumber, in the making of boxes and crates, and for sounding boards of musical instruments. The tender, young growth is used in making spruce beer. Smaller trees are often used as Christmas trees. It is found wild from Nova Scotia to the mountains of North Carolina. It doesn't live long and seems to flourish only in the North and further south at considerable elevations. The needles are dark yellowish-green and sharp-pointed. They may grow from three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch in length. The cones grow from 1 to 2 inches long and have clear reddish-brown scales. The Red Spruce may grow up to 80 feet high with a 1- or 2-foot diameter. P. abies, the Norway Spruce, is a pretty tree with dark green, glossy needles growing from � to 1 inch in length. Its cylindrical cones grow from 4 to 7 inches long. Norway Spruces can be used as a windbreak and as Christmas trees. Burgundy Pitch is the purified resin extracted from this tree. Another product made from various kinds of Spruces is tannin; this is extracted from the bark. More Spruces will be mentioned below in the varieties section.

Pot Cultivation

Spruce trees need a relatively pure atmosphere to survive. They will die if they are covered with soot or other impurities. Some Spruce will grow on dry soil, but they will do much better if the soil never gets very dry. If these trees are going to be planted in a forest, they should be planted when they are 9 to 15 inches high. Plant them in very small holes and mix in a few ounces of superphosphate. Spruces intended for the garden can be planted when 3 or 4 feet high. Larger plants can even be transplanted by skilled gardeners. Spruces form compact balls of fibrous roots that make transplanting them with minimum shock possible. The best time to plant them is in early spring, before new growth begins, or from late August until mid-fall. Planting too late in the fall is not advisable because the plants don't have time to become well established before the beginning of winter. Except for very small plants, Spruce shouldn't be moved until they are balled and burlapped with a good, unbroken ball of soil attached to the roots. For trees grown as ornament, holes that are 2 feet or more deep and at least a foot wider all around than the ball of soil should be dug. If the soil is poor, dig larger holes and add good dirt. The balls of soil should be set in an inch deeper than they were previously growing. Pack soil along with compost or other organic matter around it and soak thoroughly with water. Mulch the surface with peat moss, leaf mold, compost, or other material. Make sure to soak the ground completely during dry periods for the first year or two until they become well established.

Propagation

Wild types may be increased by seeds sown in friable (fine, crumbly) soil. Seeds take from 2 to 4 weeks to germinate, so time them accordingly that once they've sprouted there will be no more danger from frost. Don't plant your seeds on ground where water accumulates. Beds, 3 to 4 feet wide and 12 to 15 inches apart, should be made. Sow the seeds thinly and cover with a �-inch of soil or coarse sand. It would be beneficial to protect the seedbeds from harsh sun or excessive frost by covering with slat shades. Seeds may also be started in containers in a frame or greenhouse. Hybrids may be increased by grafting on stocks of their types that have been established in containers or by cuttings. Grafting is accomplished under glass in the spring or winter. The stocks should be established in pots and brought into a warm greenhouse a few weeks beforehand. Erect shoots should be used for scions when possible and regular side grafting may be practiced. When the union is complete, they should be placed in a cold frame and eventually in a nursery border. Cuttings of the dwarf kinds of the common and Oriental Spruces can be rooted in late summer and fall. Short side shoots, 2 inches long, are inserted in a bed of sand in a propagating case in a greenhouse. Once they've formed roots, they are potted separately in small containers. Layering isn't usually done with Spruce, though they root very well this way. As a matter of fact, the lower branches of some kinds take root when in contact with the ground. Pruning isn't really required unless the tree begins to form more than one trunk. Lower branches should be cut off if they start to die.

P. pungens	P. Smithiana

Varieties

P. Abies (Norway Spruce) & (var. that have colored leaves & interesting habit of growth) argenteo-spica, aurea, pyramidata, columnaris, pendula, inversa, viminalis, virgata (Snake Spruce) & monstrosa - (dwarf var. for the rock garden) conica, pygmaea, parviformis, compacta, Clanbrasiliana, procumbens, tabuliformis & pumila.
P. orientalis (Oriental Spruce) & dwarf var. aurea, nana, pygmaea, aureo-spicata.
P. Engelmannii & var. argentea, glauca, Fendleri.
(The Blue Spruces) P. pungens (Colorado Spruce) & var. glauca, caerulea, argentea, Kosteriana; P. glauca R. H. Montgomery (dwarf kind).
(Japanese Spruces) P. bicolor; P. Glehnii; P. jezoensis; P. Maximowiczii; P. polita (Tigertail Spruce); P. Schrenkiana.
P. obovata (Siberian Spruce); P. Smithiana (Himalayan Spruce); P. spinulosa (Sikkim Spruce); P. glauca (White Spruce); P. rubens (Red Spruce); P. mariana (Black Spruce); P. sitchensis (Sitka Spruce); P. Breweriana; P. Omorika (Servian Spruce); P. asperata; P. brachytyla; P. Koyamai; P. likiangensis; P. morrisonicola.